Texture Ghosting

Any chance to avoid Texture ghosting (blending dublicated)?
In the middle of model texture(and model) looks fine, but close to the edge of photos model looks more noise and texture shows dublicated(ghosts).
I sure its happens cause of incorect lens distortion model. I wrote about it before and can repeat it again - its not cause camera shake or blur. Its bad distorsion compensation.

Hi Yegor,

thanks for reporting. This is result directly from RC?

Hi Yegor

Is it in the whole dataset or just in a small part of it ?

Are all the source images SHARP ?

admin, what you mean “directly from RC”?
I have pipeline - photo - photoshop raw convertor - RC (align and computing) - Zbrush to cleanup, retopo and reproject details - RC(project textures).

Wishgranter, not all photos are sharp but most of them. In compare same pipeline, but with Nikon camera (some photos not in focus and some shaked) give a perfect result in compare with Sony a7r2. That really strange for me.
On Sony a7r2 always same problem - noisy Top and bottom of model. Shell on the edge of model (on the point where First and Last shot must be fitted) And ghosting on the top and bottom of model. So its really looks like distorsion problem.

I did s small test - turned off images with blur and shakes. But all the same. Just crack of shell little bit moved to over place. :frowning:

Hi Yegor
then these are issues related to ALIGNMENT… That is why I have asked you whether it is all or just some “hot-spots” with blurry results…

are you using any Image stabilization with the sony?

maybe worth turning it off? it could be messing with the alignment.

Chris, hmm… its makes sense… I will test it today.

makes a new set with image stabilization turned off. And with twise faster shutter (1/200).
Result its better, but still have crack on the back (seems its not enough photo overlapping cause of wall) and still have ghosting on texture. Even on the front of model there its enough overlaped photos. :frowning:
Maybe need some other algorithm of texture blending?

I found in settings two methods of texture projection… With ghosting (blend all photos in one) and it sucks… and some kind mix method… sucks even more… :cry:

I’ve gotten the “shell”/“double-mesh” before on photos taken with a camera that didn’t have image stabilization, so I don’t think that’s the issue - more likely it is blurry photos or an uncooperative object (shiny/featureless surface).

It is not this case. Other Lenses don`t makes this bugs.
So only one was to improve texture quality - Bake two textures.
One - “As is” and second - with most of photos Off. just 5-6 most important angles.
And then mask in Photoshop Best(sharpest and without Ghosts) parts. :?

can you shoot photos with tripod?

1/200 might not be enough hand held.

also are you shooting wide open? maybe something around f8-10 will work better.

the other thing do you need to adjust autofocus for that lens? it could be slightly off. i assume the sony will let you do that.

one more thing you could try is adding a bit of local contrast. with something like clarity in lightroom.

I would have thought that the a7rII would have been a very good camera for this.

Hi Chris.
Its all sounds reasonable but I have experiences with other cameras (Canon, Nicon) with same strategy of shooting and its make more clean result. Sony a7r2 its a really good camera and very expansive as for me, so I wait from it some profit in compare with my old cams. But… I’m confused. (
Yes I can shoot with tripod and also I have turntable and light setup for shooting small and middle size objects in a best way. But all the same.
Tomorrow I will do some tests. I have converter Canon-Sony lens. I will ask my friend for Canon lens. And will compare.

Also… I dont know how important autofocus? For agisoft it was slightly important. They told about it in documents(help), but my test show its not so important. In compare keeping subject in focus - better to use autofocus. I dont know is it realy iportant for RC.

well you want everything in focus and sharp as possible when looking at it at 1:1

can you post a small crop of a source photo at 1:1?

maybe also do a test to see how sharp you can get a photo while on tripod and using manual focus and live view. just to see how sharp you can get it at 1:1. that might tell you if you are getting a slightly off autofocus point.

but testing with a different canon lens is a good idea too.

as long as you get it reasonably sharp it should be ok.

now looking at your issue, i think i have seen similar things on some of my models, but it hasn’t happened in the main area, but off to the side that wasn’t covered by a lot of photos.

though i have to stay not all of my photos I’ve been putting in are 100% sharp at 1:1 and its still be doing a pretty good job of it.
I’m using D810 and D800e for it. and I still feel it could be sharper at 1:1

I hope you get it figured out. it should really be one of the best cameras out there for doing this kind of work.


Hi Yegor

looking at your data AND my experience ( last 4 days ) with the Sony A7r ( the first model ) + Samyang 14mm Aspherical lens again I see the same issue as a lot of photographs are referring to. The main issue is that you NEED to use a TRIPOD or get properly focused images. The design of the cameras ( very “lite” weight ) make proper sharp focus a PAIN. Shooting “from hand” is no way under 1/100-200 seconds. With D800E you can get to 1/15-10 seconds WITHOUT any problem, and it is because of its robust weight.

Pressing the shutter will move the whole camera much more than with other cameras, that is why you get a part of the image out of focus…

For confirmation on your side, can you try shooting something with a tripod versus “from hand”?

Wishgranter wrote:

Hi Yegor

looking back on your data AND my experience ( last 4 days ) with the Sony A7r ( the first model ) + Samyang 14mm Aspherical lens im see same issue as a lot of photographs are referring to. The main issue is you NEED to use TRIPOD or get properly focused imgs. The design of the cameras ( very “lite” weight ) make proper sharp focus a PAIN. shooting form hand is no way under 1/100-200 sec. On D800E can get to 1/15-10 sec WITHOUT any problem, and its because of its robustness-weight.

Pressing of shutter will move whole camera a much more as on other cameras, that why you get out of focus some part of the image…

For confirmation even on your side can try shoot something from tripod vs from hand ?

the first A7r had some issues with shutter vibration, if I recall correctly - so that might be causing the issue, too. Otherwise, it should certainly be possible to get sharp handheld images: the cameras have IBIS and lenses have OSS for just this purpose. I did a test with an A7Rii and 55mm/1.8 and got perfectly clear/crisp handheld results. Granted, it was outdoors and well-lit, but if you follow proper photographic technique, there’s no reason these cameras shouldn’t produce good results.

I used a Sony NEX-5T (smaller/lighter than the A7 by far) all last summer and got plenty of great results from Photoscan and Reality Capture.

If anything, I think using a lighter camera will be better for shooting handheld, because you won’t have the fatigue of hefting a heavy DSLR - I’ve used a D810 for the past few years and the weight definitely strains your arms after a full day of shooting.

Interesting read related to Sony


Hi guys.
Wishgranter, yes, you right, camera its small and light weight, and Yes, I noticed what clicking the button move the camera. And it sucks. ((
And I agree about internal stabilization - its moves sensor and distortion model will moved to as for me. (Maybe Im wrong)
Also… rolling shatter noticeable. I got two shots, one static, one in slight move, both 1/200(its more than enough). both sharp. No stabilization… but… just a look at them! :? (image attached)
1/200(!!) no motion blur! But image compressed (rolling shatering on this camera going from side to side? or… may be its sensor stabilization platform so sensitive to move by itself(stab was off) then I start movement? like a damper)

Also, I got test from tripod (and trurtable), and F20 and 1/10 and lot of light and zoom at 50mm and fixed focus (some shot a bit out of focus cause turntable are turn the object(yep… ))) ) and its going out from focus. But anyway result its… fantastic! I got Most Detailed Mushroom Polypore 3D Model in the world!!! :lol: (image attached)

And No ghosting on textures, and scan its smooth and detailed as hell. So its camera problem… :shock: :evil:

and… I got one idea how to improve texture sharpness… will create separate post for it.

Hi Yegor

OK thanx for confirmation. One side note to improve your SHARPNESS - never go over F11 ! :smiley: