I am currently using a Canon Eos 6D + 50mm f1.2L lens. it has given me awesome results. BUT, I’ve also got amazing results with my Galaxy S7 phone camera in pro mode. this is fascinating for me. Im getting into a serious 3d Scan project and I was planning to get a Sigma SD1 ( for its per pixel extreme accuracy) or a Olympus E-M5 Mk2 + 12mm f2 lens ( for its stabilization and added depth of field).
But I’ve read that there are problems with M4/3 cameras? is there something I should be aware of or a list of compatible cameras??
Basically, you can use anything that will give you results.
Why should there be anything wrong with M43?
This thread might interest you, although it is a bit long: Accuracy and speed. I’m impressed.
There are quite a few examples with different cameras, most not very expensive.
The results are still very good.
From those, you can draw your own conclusions for your specific case.
Bottom line is (for me at least) you don’t have to throw a ton of money at your camera dealer, only if you need to squeeze the last tenth percent of accuracy out of it.
thats an awesome thread Götz! , I’ve been generally surprised with RC quality and speed honestly, I got 15million tris from a Samsung galaxy s7 scan something impossible with photoscan. I was wondering because I was considering to get a smaller sensor camera, to have more dof. Thats why I was considering M43 but saw someone here had issues with it . But it seems then that just any camera with low iso and enough megapixels will do a decent job
Do somebody have experience with drones? I tried with DNG pictures done by Mavic drone and result is so-so . Too much of geometry noise and artifcats , some weird wholes and in general the geometry is a kind of a bit deformed. While at the same time I get pretty good results with my iphone DNGs same resolution even smaller matrix.
As of Sigma cameras I wonder if they are capable to do hundreds photos with appropriate speed. I tried one and it was super slow. I bet it would turning the whole capture process into non stop waiting.
Also I wonder if RC needs to do something for Image stabilized photos? Photoscan for example needs something in the settings ( can’t recall what it is ) Each image should have each own camera calibration or something
I had quite good results with Mavic pro drone, but you absolutely need to capture in RAW on the drone (the JPGs are very badly smoothed), and due to some bug somewhere on the RAW management in Windows or RC, you need to convert the raw files to PNG before using them in RC. You can use a command line tool (dcraw) for that.
If you are using directly the raw files in RC, it will be very very bad.
About the choice of cameras, I found out that for most usage, like small objects or places scanning, it is better to go wide angle, you will have more overlap to work with. 50mm on a full frame or even wost on a crop sensor is too long in my opinion.
I have been using 16-35 mm zooms and 24 or 28mm primes on full frames cameras (EOS 5DSR and sony A7RII) and 10-18mm zoom and 12 mm primes on crop sensor camera (Sony NEX6).
If you are doing handheld indoor shootings, watch the high iso settings performances of the camera, this is very important.
I had quite good results with Mavic pro drone, but you absolutely need to capture in RAW on the drone (the JPGs are very badly smoothed), and due to some bug somewhere on the RAW management in Windows or RC, you need to convert the raw files to PNG before using them in RC. You can use a command line tool (dcraw) for that.
If you are using directly the raw files in RC, it will be very very bad.
You mean DNG files, right? I did converted them into Tiff without compression. Did some exposure correction and vignetting removal in Lightroom. My problem was the huge amount of weird surface errors everywhere https://www.flickr.com/photos/60898728@ … /lightbox/
I think it was quite enough overlapping , DSLR does perfect surface with even separate asphalt grains there
I wonder what is prefferable exposure settings: higher ISO with super short exposer like 1/25000 for crisper images or otherwise very low ISO with 1/250 shutter speed ? Do you use “tripod” drone mode or any extra tricks? Could it be something with image stabilization?
Have somebody tried smaller drone “Spark” or jpg only makes it absolutely useless?
I had these small depth errors in surfaces before. And sometimes it comes from slight errors in camera alignments. Maybe someone from CR can give an advice ?
Maybe try to lower the detector sensibility and reprojection error (what are your settings ?), realign, reconstruct and see what you got.
What I found out about the Mavic pro is that even at minmum ISO, there is a bit of noise on the DNGs, so it is really better to stick to a low detector sensitivity (you don’t want the noise to be taken as features).
I don’t remember about the ISO setting on the MAVIC, but yes, I would definitely stick to the lowest ISO. Aperture is fixed, if I remember well… And stabilization is doing a great job at slow shutter speeds.
something impossible with photoscan. I was wondering because I was considering to get a smaller sensor camera, to have more dof. Thats why I was considering M43 but saw someone here had issues with it . But it seems then that just any camera with low iso and enough megapixels will do a decent job