Real surf shape waves

I seen real surfing waves along the coast in the past, also the steepness of the beach to shoreline also going out to sea, i use to notice it not that steep at all between 10 degrees, which i thinking why waves do act as they do in the real world and why waves in gaming are very fake like and a little bit wierd as well as because i do notice the slope of shoreline to depth is way to steep, try and see it as a different perspective try to decrease the steepness to change the shape of the waves which maybe the key to creating a better shore break no w also out about 30 meters from the shoreline there are also sandbars as well depending the shape of the beach some sandbars do attach the the beach as well, also when i use to swim at a beach i would enter the water i would go out 20 to 30 meters and be waist depth then walk another 5 meters less then knee depth also a sandbar also controls the shape of waves second breaking waves, then out further 100m another area waves break also quarter mile out, which usually surf waves can be enormous Spilling and plunging barrel waves the white water reminding me of foam like similar to clouds, the first part of the waves coming in from the deep ocean forms a concave troph then it curls over and reminding me of a waterfall then when the wave impacts depending the type of wave which forms a huge wall of white water also length of white water increasing in length until wave reforms and break again, now as for white water size never taller than the wave itself eg, 30ft wave about a 60 foot face white water about 50f by 70 to 80 foot thickness from face to front as well as balance power of a wall of white water can wipe out a surfer and boats and lesure crafts, so in most gaming slope is to steep think of a vaturie angle to steep hinders air flow get the correct angle improves airflow as well as correct angle of ocean bottom changes ocean wave caracter, also i went to Goolwa beach waves were huge face of waves a dark ocean color waves were too powerful some had there boards snaped from the waves.