Tempereature of flash is not a problem. Sometimes I see sign “Overheating” and got to wait 1-2 minutes. Most of time I shooting 1\125-1\250 exposure of flash. So it’s overheating few times per working day (5-6 hours). And I use 1 battery for all day.
But If I use exposure of flash = 1 it will overheat often and I need 3-4 battery for full working day.
Ok, thanks a lot!
Aleksandr, would appreciate more of your thoughts around
“If you use static light you will get shadows” I think I understand - you mean shadows all from same direction?
If you use mobile light you will get texture mixed from different pictures and shadowed parts on one picture will mixed with illuminated part from another picture. Finally you will get uniformly illuminated texture." You mean still shadows. but any given object shadowed from a different direction in each of the overlapping shots? I can see that a bit of shadow must help with flat nearly smooth surfaces like plaster, esp finely textured like paint brush marks on plaster.
“You must capture in RAW and then correct shadows in Lightroom\Capture One.” I thought that kind of messing with image was not liked by RC - or is that just about optical messing, like cropping or distortion removal?
In general, I thought there’s a danger that RC may mistake a shadow for a feature, esp getting confused if that ‘feature’ seems to move.
Hi Tom,
Raising shadows is not too bad in my experience.
And the problem with shadows seems to be more a problem for competitors. At least I don’t have any problems using an onboard flash. Also, I think it depends a lot on the object. If you have a largely flat plaster surface, changing light directions should be fine. If you have a really coarse and bumpy plaster, changing light direction will more likely affect feature detection. Then again, if it changes gradually, it might not be so bad. It all depends… 
All good - spent this rainy day researching flash - Godox looks unbeatable http://flashhavoc.com/godox-flash-system-overview.
Close to ordering a TT600 basic manual flash, would pay a bit more for a TT685 with TTL but then you have to buy the dedicated Canon/Nikon etc variant and I expect one day to give back the borrowed Nikon and get that Fuji!
Ring flashes and suchlike will have to wait.
Looking forward to hearing more of Alelsandr’s experience, seemingly making a virtue of shadow at varying angle. Would be great to not have to think any more about umbrellas etc.
Hi Tom,
if you’re eyeing the X-T20, then you might be interested in reading this:
https://admiringlight.com/blog/fuji-x-pro-2-vs-sony-a7-ii-noise-comparison/
I am pretty sure it’s the same sensor in the X Pro 2. Bottom Line is noise level about equal - what more do you want? 
There is no quoting on this forum, hard to structurize text(
To Tom Foster
“If you use static light you will get shadows” I think I understand - you mean shadows all from same direction?
If you use mobile light you will get texture mixed from different pictures and shadowed parts on one picture will mixed with illuminated part from another picture. Finally you will get uniformly illuminated texture." You mean still shadows. but any given object shadowed from a different direction in each of the overlapping shots? I can see that a bit of shadow must help with flat nearly smooth surfaces like plaster, esp finely textured like paint brush marks on plaster.
“You must capture in RAW and then correct shadows in Lightroom\Capture One.” I thought that kind of messing with image was not liked by RC - or is that just about optical messing, like cropping or distortion removal?
In general, I thought there’s a danger that RC may mistake a shadow for a feature, esp getting confused if that ‘feature’ seems to move.
For all about Fuji. Just look for this absolutely exact comparison: LINK!
You will see how clear and sharp are Sony shots (I don’t sell sony))) I just use it for last 4 years. It is excellent camera. I will buy last Sony a7RM3 becouse it’s worth every cent. Few years ago I used Nikon d700 for all my work and I was happy. And than I tried Sony)))… Even my lowend (for this days) NEX7 is useful in many cases.
About GODOX flashlights, it’s very depends on your case. TT600\TT685 looks good for evironmental reconstuction of rooms\houses etc.
This is like saying a Porsche Turbo has a better acceleration than a VW Golf GTI.
Of course the a7r2 (or 3) is better than the X-T20. But with the best available lens it’s also 3-4 times as expensive. And I am asking - is it also 3-4 times as good? I think not. So if you have the budget, go for the alpha, or better even Nikon 850. But if you don’t, then I argue passionately that the X-T20 is one of the best you can get at the moment.
I’m also a bit confused - didn’t you suggest the ring flash for caves? Cave = round interior, room = angular interior…
As I said, I also use a mono flash for interiors. With complex geometry, you will inevitably get unwanted shadows though and not always will you be able to expunge them with more images from other angles. And especially with wide angle lenses (like my Fujinon 10-24) it is hard to avoid any shadow from the lens.
That’s very different with a ring flash I assume. There will also be some shadow by complex geometry, but it will be softened down quite a lot. But I never used one before, so please correct me if I’m wrong…
Porsche Turbo is good 
Fujifilm X-T20 is good too as I see:
As I said earlier I chose this ring flash because of :
Ring flash exampe of use :
On camera flash pros and cons:
For example - same power:
Götz Echtenacher, can you show 1-2 photo from your Fujinon 10-24 with 10mm focal length?
Hi Aleksandr,
thanks again!
Glad you agree about the X-T20! For whatever reason, the sample at ISO 200 is less sharp than the ones at 400 and above. Not sure if there was some focusing issue. The F-stop is the same…
Anyways, of course I can send you some images. What are you interested in? Just contact me by mail since they exceed the limits of the forum by orders of magnitude. Just browse my name and you should be able to find my “adress”-page…