oh so reconstruct with everything to get the optimal mesh, then turn off the taped images to get a cleaner texture?
I’ll likely lock the distance it’s viewable from when i add it to the larger scene
@Götz and @Chris - would love to keep in touch offline at some point - john@ondaka.com is my email address - would love to understand what you’re both doing with RC/photogrammetry and hear your stories.
Hey John,
I agree with you about the steep learning curve!
And sorry for confusing you and Tim - I’m sure you understand the potential though! 
Every project has it’s own needs and what works is always best, but in the case of the “mosaics” I am 99% certain (the missing 1 % is politeness that that is the cause for the lack of detail. I positive that with no de-noising and sharpening, there would be enough features on the boxes to get at least the general geometry, maybe with a few flawy. I have good experience with similar metal surfaces (gutters and drainpipes) which are much further away on my shots.
And yes, throw everything in there for the mesh, but if there are shots too close (as in a few cm), you might get problems from that, so better deactivate one of them.
I didn’t understand your last post…
Just meant that it would be nice to keep in touch outside of this particular forum. I noticed that there are clear rules here about mentioning other photogrammetry products/companies which makes it a risk to discuss pros/cons of various tools or techniques without risking being banned. ie. I have a BLK360, and the only way to get data off of it and to register the scans is with a competing project but not typing a particular 8 character name is tiresome 
But no worries either way - I appreciated your help and advice.
Hi Joseph,
We were at a time related crossover, I meant the post before tha last! lol
I emailed you already…
I agree with you about the tiresome rules.
However, I think if the software is no competitor, it shouldn’t be a problem if it is in a particular context to a problem related to RC and not excessive. Also, adding 1 or 2 *s usually does the trick.
To be honest, this thread is one of the most productive in a while so they should be glad for some activity! >:D
that model is looking better.
if you mix photos with sun and overcast. you’ll get an average of them both. so faded shadows.
I much prefer using overcast photos, as its easy to re-light in 3d to any time of day.
but if you have the 2 different days saved out as image lists, then you can try out texturing each set by itself, or all turned on.
also i find opening the image lists in excel a good way to sort the lists. it gets over some of the UI issues in rc. at the cost of going to external software which is a bit of a pain.