How to get TimelineComponent direction?

You are completely right, my bad.
I looked into it a bit more, and here is the code determining the Enum - UE4 Github Link

Since bReversePlayback is private, you need to use IsReversing() function. BUT IsReversing() will return false (not matter what) if the timeline is not currently playing, which is probably why your code might have not worked. Can you work around that limitation?